After Angkor Wat, where next? Once along, bone-thumping drive from the temple hub, the seaside towns of southern Cambodia have been opened up for shorter forays by a Cambodia Angkor Air flight linking Siem Reap with Sihanoukville. In Kep-sur-Mer, as it was known in the 1960s, the modernist-style Villa Romonea (doubles from £80) is now a six-room retro-retreat with an infinity pool. Forty minutes' drive west is the percolating café culture of Kampot, where The Columns (doubles from £40), in a French-colonial building near the riverfront, is about to unveil its new bedrooms. Nearby are limestone caves and pepper plantations, but for a rousing experience, ABOUTAsia has new trips to spot dolphins and dugong off the beaches of Ream National Park, zipping clients by speedboat across flooded paddy-fields to the remote island of Phnom Da, with its eighth-century temple ruins and old Viet Cong hideouts.
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